Tuning Tips

Not sure which wax to use? Try the Wax Wizard in the ski and snowboard wax selection guide.

Safety Tips

• Ensure that your work area has exhaust fans or a fresh air supply.
• Do not expose waxes to open flames such as torches, heat guns, space heaters, or fireplaces.
  • Do not smoke while waxing with fluoro waxes.
  • There is a chemical danger associated with fluoro waxes when overheated. If fluoro is exposed to a heat source having a temperature higher than ~570 F or 300 C the fluoro forms a poisonous gas. Never use these temperatures on any RaceWax.com product.
    • DO NOT ATTEMPT TO MELT THE FLUORO POWDERS OR FIBERS SOLD HERE.
  • Normal temperatures see Iron Temperature chart will not pose this risk.
• Safety glasses are recomended.
• If you find you are sensitive to wax vapors, use a respirator with a cartridge for organic vapors.
• Work with powders in a well-ventilated area or use a mask.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) on:

• Equipment list: Clear or black P-Tex candles; Knife; matches/lighter; Plexiglass scraper; Metal scraper; Sandpaper, 320 grit; Grey base pad
• Small nicks and scratches should be left alone
• Repair gouges that are deep enough to interfere with structure
• You may use base cleaner to clean the area to be repaired, but do not use cleaner on the entire base.
• Before starting the process of dripping p-tex, remove any flammable cleaners from the work area to a safe place.
• Sharpen the end of the p-tex candle so it will light easier.
• Light one end of a P-Tex candle with a match/torch; hold the candle above the flame.
• CAUTION! A P-Tex candle burns very hot (>970 F); Severe burns can result if dripped on skin.
• Ventilate room if you recently used fluoro waxes.
• Hold the candle close to the base to reduce carbon formation (see below) from the burning process.
• Use the metal scraper to catch any unwanted p-tex drips as you move to the damaged area.
• Keep the candle spinning to reduce the build up of unsighlty carbon that not only looks bad in the repair, but weakens the bond as well. If carbon does appear, dab it off on the metal scraper.
• Take your time and let the p-tex flow into the gouges slowly. Going slowly will let the base preheat and accept the p-tex better.
• If the p-tex continues to burn on the base, blow the flame out so the base does not overheat.
• Deeper gouges should be filled in multiple passes, allowing each layer to cool before adding the next. Keep in mind that p-tex candles are too soft to withstand snow abrasion and will wear out; you may wish to consider a professional repair job.
• Slightly overfill the gouges.
• After repairs have cooled, remove excess material with a metal scraper.
• Sand with 320 grit sandpaper and the gray base pad (from the 3-pad set).
• Remove any micro hairs by making a few passes with a sharp plexiglass scraper.
• Structure if needed with a coarse metal brush and gray pad. Use a rilling bar if needed.
• To prevent carbon formation when using p-tex: The key is to maintain a blue flame (don't let it burn orange). To do this, keep it low to the base or close to a metal scraper. This will minimize carbon buildup. First light, then, holding the candle at a 45 degree angle and rotate the lit portion against the metal scraper to get rid of the carbon. What that also means is that you're holding a metal scraper in your off hand, rotating the candle and scraping off the black drips, then bringing both scraper and ptex next to the section to be repaired. It is hard to describe, but basically, get as low as you can without putting out the flame. Here the ptex no longer drips, but the ptex becomes molten and pours out in one long run. The carbon floats on top and when you scrape it, it comes right off.

• Ever hit a patch of snow and stick like glue? Like treads in a tire, structure (stone ground patterns) in your base enhance performance. Keep the base waxed and the structure open (unclogged) and water will be moved away efficiently and keep you flying; if not the suction effect of water will slow you down. A stone ground base should be waxed a couple of times (minimum!) before you take it on the snow.
• Brush off dirt with a brush and reserve this brush for dirt (metal, for example brass, preferred, a steel brush is agressive and should only be used by experienced tuners).
• Then do your edges (for an equipment list see the links at the top of this page):
  • Base Edge. The amount of base edge bevel will affect the ability of the ski/board to engage a turn on the snow. The more base edge bevel, the easier it will be to pivot or slide from side to side. With a new pair of skis the non-race skier may wish to start with a 0.5 degree bevel, and if your edges are locking in to a turn too soon, you can move up to 0.75 or 1 degree. To go back to a lower bevel angle you have to resurface the base, so start with smaller angles. Once the base edge bevel is set, maintain (and racers should polish) it as long as possible using diamond, ceramic and gumi stones.
  • Side Edge. Side edge beveling will give the skis more grip on the snow surface. Higher angles should be reserved for experienced racers; if the angle is too high the ski can 'rail out' on a less experienced racer or a petite woman or child . Typical angles are 1.0 to 3.0 degrees. Less angle equals less grip. Keep in mind that an aggressive edge (high angle), may be more difficult for lighter racers (young kids or women) may make it more difficult to recover from being up on the edge.
  • If you don't know what angle your ski/board is set at before you start, mark the metal edge with a sharpie, start the tool at the lowest angle and see if it removes the marking on your edge. Raise the angle and repeat until it removes the mark.
  • After you set your edge angles once, substitute a blue DMT or yellow Moonflex diamond stone for the file so you don't wear down your edges - the stone will sharpen without severe metal removal. Sharpen your edges on a weekly basis by using the diamond stone on your side edge only (unless there is damage). You don't need to use the file again unless you change the angle or have edge damage. To repair severe edge damage you may need a gray/black DMT or black moonflex diamond stone.
  • After doing the side edge run the gummi stone down the edge from tip to tail lightly with no pressure to remove hanging burrs left by files/stones.
  • A 0.5 or 1 degree base angle and a 1 degree side edge bevel is a typical starting point. A 1/2 would be better for hard pack or icy conditions.
  • I like to record the angle settings so I remember next time I tune; I usually write it in the under-the-foot area.
  • For a detailed discussion on this with pictures see the links at the top of this page.
• Drip on cheap (the red/warm hydrocarbon, SKU# 600, we sell is perfect) hydrocarbon wax and scrape while hot to clean base and remove old wax (never use chemical cleaners) - the more you do this (after each or every other time you ride) the faster your ski/board will get because you are infusing more & more wax into the base. Repeat until the wax comes up clean.
• Then wax with the wax you intend to ski/board on. If you are using a fluoro speed wax, use it now, if just a hydrocarbon drip it on, iron and scrape. If using FluoroMax or other racewax.com fluoro waxes, you must rub it on (racewax fluoro waxes will not drip on) crayon on one layer, then with the iron in one hand soften the wax for 1 second and rub a slightly thicker coat on. Then iron.
• If you don't know the temperature to set the iron to, start at a low temperature and raise it until you have a 4-6 inch trail of melted wax behind the iron. Too short and the iron is too cool; too long and the iron is too hot. Never smoke the wax.
• Let the base cool to room temperature (slowly, put it out in the cold now and it won't soak it up as well) Scrape off wax (this may take multiple passes). Sharp snow crystals will dig into wax and slow you down - you must get excess wax off.
• Brush off excess wax from the base (a nylon will be fine to open up the structure or pattern in your base, a horsehair brush is for polishing).
• This step is critical! You must remove excess wax. Think of structure like treads on a tire, they need to be open to move water out from your ski/board.
• This may not seem right at first, adding wax only to scrape it off, but remember this, you ski on your base - not wax, the wax lubricates and protects the base. If you have too much wax it could add drag (to learn more read about waxes in the Wax Wizard link at the top of this page).
• If you are a non-racer, you are done.
• Repeat again with T-series or Hybrid wax, if desired, (including scraping & brushing)
• Then polish to a shine (use the polishing cloth or preferably an 18-mm horsehair brush)
• If you use powders, add now.
  • Sprinkle an even layer of powder or microfiber overlay on the base.
  • Spread it evenly with a cork (lightly). A synthetic cork generates more heat than a natural cork and is better for working overlays.
  • Work the powder/fiber into the base with a cork in stages. Increase the pressure in each stage.
  • In the latter stages, use sufficient pressure so as to generate heat.
  • Use the horsehair brush lightly to work the overlay into the structure.
  • Brush out excess fluoro and polish

• NEVER, use cleaners - use the hot-wax-scrape method to clean. Cleaners are not recommended by ski & board manufacturers. They dry the base out and it would take lots of waxings to get it right again. Use the hot wax scrape method to cleanse the base. Basically you are using a light wax, melting it and scraping while the wax is still liquid. It cleans and conditions in one step. Using this method and keeping the base waxed will make it faster with time. If you already own cleaners, don't throw them away, you can use it to clean scrapers, files and other tools.

• Our unique speed additives make the wax pasty when melted. Rub the wax on as if it was a crayon (fairly thick, two passes should work), then iron; if the wax is hard, soften it by touching it to the iron, then rub it on. By crayoning, you save wax (and money) over the wasteful drip-on method

• My Hybrid Series is my best quality and best seller. It is very compatible with the Swix line and matches up in this way: My 5 = Their 10; 4=8; 3=7; 2=6; 1=4. The T-Series is a fast wax and a very good value, it just doesn't have the same mixture of speed additives as the Hybrid and the wax isn't as sophisticated. F-Max is more of a base or first coat/layer wax. The 1 level may come in handy under your conditions as it is outstanding in the cold; it is a lot like a CH4, it is hard & hardens fast, but as a racing wax it is much faster. The Microfiber overlay is better in the cold than any of the CERA powders.

• About 10 to 15 waxings.

• Our speed additives don't require the regulation of the fluoro to perform well.

• Hot boxing skis and boards enables the wax to penetrate deeper into the the bases and can play a role in making bases faster. Also, for new skis it will accelerate the preparation process; it can take the place of 10 waxings.
• Hot-wax scrape your ski/board (yes, even new ones) until the wax is clean (for new skis/boards this is important to building a foundation for the hot box treatment). Cool, scrape and brush out all excess wax.
• Generously wax your base with a warm temperature rated wax (typically a red or yellow) and do not scrape or brush.
• Place base up in a heated hot box at 140 F (60 C). For anywhere between 6 and 9 hours. Use the advice of the shop tech to decide this (if in doubt be conservative).
• When done allow the skis/boards to cool (overnight is preferred).
• This can be repeated several times.
• In my World Cup tuning class Willie said that he uses a hot box to save time sometimes. He suggested 60 C for 6-9 hours and said that was equivalent to 10 wax cycles. You should double-check this with the ski manufacturer.
• Get advice before hot boxing cap skis.
• Follow-up hot boxing with racewax.com's fluoro waxes and keep them waxed to prevent drying out.

• When in doubt wax with the colder one.

• Wax cold if you can only do it once for the day; racewax.com waxes have enough fluoro to perform well as it warms. But if you have time, you can brush off dirt, rub on a warmer wax, cork it in well, brush wax out of the structure, polish, and add an overlay if you desire.

• On average the fluoro content is 25% fluoro, but the content is adjusted according to the temperature range of the wax. It has far more than other high fluoro waxes, and the fluoro compounds are a blend of new technology fluoros, fluoro microfibers, that don't carry some of the problems that other fluoro waxes do. So you don't need high & low fluoro waxes.
  The fluoro speed additives used by racewax.com do not dry out the base.
  Most fluoro speed additives used by racewax.com will not burn out (but we also don't recommend that you run the iron hot and make the waxes smoke). Except for the Hybrid wax, all my fluoro waxes are made by blending fluoros like microfibers into the wax. This eliminates any risk from fumes, because the fluoros are unable to be melted. The hybrid uses a chemical type fluoro (with the microfiber) that, like other fluoros, can be made airborne if it were to be overheated, but it is in low concentration and it isn't a concern.

• There is dirt/sludge in the wet snow in warm weather and the dirt floats to the surface. Use a Moly or Graphite wax to repel the dirt.

• Try to work in a ventilated area and follow my other safety tips. I have scanned in the safety sheet for fluoro powder for your convenience: safety sheet, page 1; safety sheet, page 2.

• I can tell you that my powders and fibers are 100% pure. If the others claim 100% purity then chemically they must be the same. However, I will contend that the physical modifications or form of our fluoros (nano and fiber versions) make them superior to other products.

• As a follow-up to the previous question, you can see from our Fluoro Powders and Fibers Chart that some fluoros do work over broad temperature ranges. In our case, we say our fluoros work best in certain ranges because of their physical form.

• Racers find that the microfiber waxes and overlays provide speed throughout or deep into the race.

• You are 100% correct. However, given the level of understanding that most people have about tuning & waxing, and the misconceptions regarding the concepts you state below -- no matter how clearly I attempt to say it -- I still get people jacking up the temperature trying to melt the stuff. So rather than face the wrath of people with ruined bases, I don't discuss your points below. I say not to iron fluoro is that I don't want people to think that you can melt my product with an iron. If you want to use a warm iron to soften wax and let the powder drift into it, that's OK. I don't say this because I was getting too many people misunderstanding it and trying to melt the fluoro. I tried for 2 years to write something that I thought was clear but I still had confusion. I feared someone would ruin their base.

• That's all good, but you should brush paste out of the structure with a horsehair brush as well.

• This is a suction effect of water under the base. If the water doesn't move out from under the base, the ski slows from suction. You need a deeper structure (and to make sure that you brush excess wax out) to channel the water like treads on tires.

• If your iron isn't calibrated, what you dial in may not be the exact temperature of the iron. Use these numbers as a guide and adjust down to the lowest temperature that will maintain the wax in a liquid state at a length of 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) behind your iron. Using your judgement is always preferred to relying on the dial setting.

• Although a domestic clothes iron (new or used) may be a less expensive option, but the damage it can cause due to wide temperature swings can end up costing you. A good wax iron only fluctuates about 4-8 degrees Celcius when waxing. A clothing or small travel iron can fluctuate up to 30 degrees Celcius. The wild swing can easily generate scorching temperatures that burn bases or damage your gear. Choose an iron with a minimum wattage of 800 and a thick (one-third to one-half inch) sole plate with no holes.

• Prolonged, unprotected exposure to the air can cause polyethylene base materials to oxidize, harden and deteriorate. Oxidation is characterized by white streaks, which appear when dried-out base surfaces begin to harden. The best defense against oxidation is regular maintenance. If it does occur, the best fix is to carefully sand or scrape off the oxidized polyethylene layer as soon as possible, then rewax immediately.
  Wax will also protect your base from oxidation. Bases exposed to oxygen will oxidize and become rough, similar to the roughness created when steel oxidizes in the form of rust. Wax seals your base to prevent the harmful oxidation that slows your ski/board. RELATED ITEM: base burnout -- The immense friction resulting from race skis tracking mega-force turns at very high speeds on hard snow in World Cup downhill courses can literally burn away ski base material underfoot in only one or two runs.

• From the DMT diamond stone site:
  • These stones contain monocrystalline diamonds (as opposed to polycrystalline). The diamonds are uniformly sized and bonded to a nickel backing to provide a long lasting very flat surface. The alternative is to use polycrystalline diamonds. These diamonds are fractured and will not wear as long as the higher quality monocrystalline.
  • We recommend water or a 50/50 water/alcohol mix on diamond stones for lubrication and to wash away the ground material.
  • Always rinse your stones with water after use. Water will remove the metal filings left on the surface that could rust. After rinsing we always recommend drying the stones thoroughly so they can be stored dry. If your diamond stone becomes dirty you can use a tooth brush and a household abrasive cleaner to clean up the stones.
  • The life of the diamond is a factor of how often you use your stone and how well you take care of it. If diamond stones are properly maintained, meaning they are kept clean and stored dry, they can last a long time. Diamond stones will, however, not last forever. For those that use stones on a daily basis and maintain them properly, the diamond will likely last for a few years.
  • If a stone is clean and you are experiencing problems, test the stone on the side of an old glass jar. Rub the stone against the glass to see if it leave scratches or frosts the glass. If you see evidence of scratches or frost, there is still diamond left on your stone that can be used for sharpening.
• From the Diaface Moonflex diamond stone site:
  • The diamond files should be used lubricated, spraying on a solution of 50% water and 50% denatured alcohol. In emergency, on the ski slope, the snow could be enough to keep them lubricated.
  • Create the edge with the 100 grit (black) using then the various grits in sequence for obtaining a mirror finish (200-400-600-1500). Three or four passes of each grit, without exerting pressure, are enough to obtain a perfect result.
  • After use, clean the stone with the water-alcohol solution using a small bronze brush.
• For all other stones: Fine steel particles, base material and old wax quickly collects on stone faces, making them feel dull. For hard stones, use a cleansing powder like Comet or Ajax, along with warm water and a heavy-duty toothbrush to remove gunk. You can also lap hard stones (but not diamond stones) on a piece of sheetrock sanding screen (laid atop a flat surface) to remove more stubborn gunk and light scoring. For best performance and durability, clean stones after every tune, and use them wetted with water or a cutting solution.

• Visualize the surface of a diamond stone as a flat plain studded with sharp rocky spires. Conversely an aluminum oxide stone is a flat surface erratically scored by canyons. The protrusive diamonds cut more aggressively than the flatter aluminum oxide stones, even if the stones have a similar grit rating. The result is that the latter don't cut base edges as quickly, thereby reducing the chance of over-beveling them. This is a significant consideration for base beveling.

• When salt is added to the snow a little bit of snow melts, the liquid is immediately faced with the immense chore of dissolving the salt, and robs itself and other liquid around it of heat to do so. This drops the temperature of the salted snow and without that heat, the liquid (or wet snow) refreezes. A salt-water-ice mixture has a lower freezing point than water-ice.

• The salt lowers the freezing point, so if the air temperature is higher than the new freezing point, the ice is now a liquid.